Hiroshima, island of Miyajima, Peace Memorial Park

Our trip to Hiroshima, 486 km away, took two hours by Shinkansen. This was fast. We had breakfast at Kyoto station (several shops; the last option for sandwiches is directly before the Shinkansen track). We had breakfast on the train and enjoyed the ride. You can not look outside the window, but you can read the book if it is with you. We used the time on the train mostly for reading. 

Our first destination was the Miyajima floating temple. We got the directions from tourist info conveniently before the exit from Hiroshima Station—a JR train ride for 20 minutes, then a ferry for 10 minutes across a small bay, and we were on the island of Miyajima. Miyajima is a very beautiful island and somewhat different from other places we visited in Japan. First, on the island, there are very few cars. Also, people here walk slower. The deer, on the other hand, are remarkably tame. The first two we saw ate newspapers. Lonely Planet suggested being careful with rail passes.

The most famous spot on the island is Itsukushima-Jinja, the floating shrine. It does not float; it is next to the shore and when the tide comes in, it looks like it is floating. This shrine is constructed like a pier. The reason for such construction is that commoners were not allowed to set foot on the island, and they should approach the shrine by boat. The view of the floating torii (a gate to the shrine) is one of the most photographed views in Japan.

We spent most of our time on Miyajima Island just walking around. The markets were full of local goods and oysters. We had a delicious lunch in the oyster restaurant, Yakugaki No Hayashi. Oysters were served raw or baked. We tried the oyster soup and baked oysters. It was a new and pleasant experience. We would suggest visiting the place if you like oysters.

Next, we headed to Hiroshima city center to see the A-bomb dome, the Peace Memorial Park, and the museum. We started with the A-bomb dome, although for others we would suggest starting with the museum. The A-bomb dome was very touching. It brought back the absolute devastation of the entire city. This building was preserved as it was one of the only ones left standing after the bomb hit.

Atomic Bomb Dome the Hiroshima Peace Memorial, a remnant of the city near ground zero of its nuclear bombardment

We walked through the Peace Memorial Park. Local school children stopped us to ask 10 questions. It seemed that they worked hard on the project, which raised awareness of the atomic bombing. After walking around the A-Bomb Dome, we went to the Children’s Memorial that was built for the children who died because of the bomb. This is the area where the paper cranes are hung as a symbol of peace.

And finally, we reached the Peace Memorial Museum. The A-Bomb Museum narrated the preceding events, during and after the atomic bombing of Hiroshima on August 6, 1945.

The whole exhibition was unbelievably touching and made us feel a whole range of emotions as we moved through it. The museum is incredibly well balanced in its presentation of the events leading up to and beyond the dropping of the bomb, and our understanding of those events was massively increased. We both felt that any visitor could not help but be moved and appalled by the suffering inflicted on the inhabitants of Hiroshima that day. Looking around as we left, you could see on people’s faces how deeply moved they were, with lots of people red-eyed and close to tears. I couldn’t stop crying so many times.

The museum is well designed, and I think it should be mandatory for every human being to understand what an atomic bomb, even a small one, means. After going through the museum, you will not understand why people still develop such weapons. Do they plan to use them? This sounds so stupid …

The museum is very cheap (50 yen or 0,5 USD) and very easily understandable with all the exhibits, videos, maquettes, and readings. We spent almost two hours there. The time went by very quickly. After departing the museum, we just walked in silence to clarify our thoughts and feelings. It is hard to call the museum experience a highlight given the subject matter, but if you do nothing else on a visit to Japan, go there!

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